The second location of this local soul food favorite brings big plates of bargain-priced Southern specialties to the Richmond district.

by Patrick Heig

Diners hungry for cheap plates of barbecue and fried catfish find solace in the outer avenues at this outpost of Alabama truck-stop chic. Kitschy, rusty odds and ends--typewriters, brand-name signs, old tools and the occasional giant fish head--hang on corrugated tin walls that give way to high loft-like ceilings studded with slowly rotating ceiling fans. In a neighborhood mostly known for its Asian restaurants, this spot serves Southern staples like fried chicken, meatloaf and shrimp po' boys with a choice of sides: mac 'n' cheese, red beans and rice, collard greens, candied yams, cornbread muffins warm from the oven, the whole deal. Sunday brunch--especially popular when there's a sports game to catch on the large TV that hangs on one wall--boasts omelets, meat-and-egg combos and grits to keep it as authentic as possible.