Canteen
San Francisco, CA 94109
Phone: (415) 928-8870
06/16/2006 Posted by crimmera
Although even smaller than I had expected (despite repeated warnings) I can easily say that Canteen is one of the most memorable restaurants I have eaten at. I've dined at Gary Danko, Boulevard, Farallon, Fifth Floor in San Francisco, and the now-defunct The Restaurant run by Marco Pierre White in London. This place is even more amazing. From the exquisite care taken on the amuse-bouche at the beginning of the meal, to the delicious souffle at the end, nothing disappoints. I tried very hard to be critical of everything I ate, but could only manage two tiny quibbles (the soup had just a touch too much wine that hadn't burned off, and the souffle was the tiniest bit too buttery). Trust me, I racked my brain to identify those criticisms. Every morsel, every bite, was a transcendent experience. The restaurant is small, but the service is excellent, the wines fantastic, unusual, and very reasonably priced (we even found a Chinon from the same vintner we'd visited on our honeymoon 15 years ago). There may be criticism of how Canteen operates - set times for food, the small spaces, etc. If you are looking for the white tablecloth experience, then this is not the restaurant to have that meal at. If you are looking for a man who understands food, how it can be combined, what cooking methods show it off, and how to procure great ingredients, then Chef Leary is your man. If you are looking for a restaurant that is an hommage to great food, fantastic cooking, and a superlative gourmet experience, then Canteen is the restaurant for you. I was truly overwhelmed by our meal, and look forward to a return visit.
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