Enrico's

Gina Goff

Citysearch

The Scene
Renowned for its premium people-watching location, this North Beach staple's crown jewel is a 40-seat, heated veranda that overlooks Broadway. Other noteworthy architectural elements, such as Greco-Roman columns and handsome French doors, were crafted by original owner Enrico Banducci and have been preserved throughout renovations. Indoors, a bustling bar serves classic cocktails to a generation-spanning crowd of locals and tourists, while the cream-colored dining room hosts those seeking a full meal. Both camps are within earshot of jazz musicians, who play at the foot of a mural depicting a Beat-era street party.

The Food
Local, seasonal ingredients shine on the Italian-inflected menu: A juicy rainbow of heirloom tomatoes is topped with fresh burrata and dressed in aged balsamic, olive oil and sea salt, while the Frog Hollow Farm peach accompaniment steals the limelight from its charred pork tenderloin entrée. Pink Hawaiian salt adds texture to a delightfully creamy duck-liver pate appetizer, but the standout dish is an impeccably seasoned Alaskan halibut main--plated simply and elegantly on a bed of sautéed fennel and leeks. Espresso-ice-cream profiteroles capped with hot fudge and toasted almonds make a grand finale.

Hits: The large, inset portico is unbeatable. It somehow manages to deliver a unique experience from the dining room without leaving alfresco guests feeling banished from the indoor action.

Misses: Service is scattered at its best, and rude at its worst. While reservations are honored promptly, drink refills can be ill-paced and diners often feel ignored after entrees arrive.