Kokkari Estiatorio

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
Sunlight pours through open picture windows while tan walls and high ceilings keep the space feeling breezy on any occasion. The front room sports a full-service bar; the back room's exhibition kitchen is flanked by a 20-foot chef's table and cauldron heating Greek coffees. Many of the tie-and-slacks-clad servers speak with authentic accents and are friendly without being intrusive.

The Food
Contemporary Hellenic dishes comprise the straightforward menu. True to tradition, lamb is a specialty--like finger-ready riblets drizzled with lemon, oregano and olive oil. Puffy zucchini pucks are lightly breaded and served with a mint-yogurt sauce. Some of the entrees are borderline enormous, including a charcoal-grilled rib eye and radiant wild King salmon. Desserts are worth the indulgence. Fans of cosmo cocktails might like the rhubarb-strawbrry soup; ice-cream lovers will go gaga for a signature sundae topped with dark chocolate, fudge and marshmallow-like sweet cream.