Aqua

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
Luxury prevails in this deep, spacious dining room, punctuated with jumbo-sized floral arrangements and looming floor-to-ceiling mirrors. Exceptional servers and a well-informed sommelier guide the affluent patrons through the pricey bill of fare.

The Food
With expert chef Laurent Manrique at the helm, the kitchen's execution approaches flawlessness, with culinary frills like ethereal foams gracing several dishes. But don't expect unadorned fish, since the chef treats his seafood like meat, partnering it with vibrant flavors and unexpected sauces. A seared scallop is set off by braised short rib, and mild-flavored cod is draped with an intense piperade sauce. Even the ubiquitous ahi tuna tartare gets an innovative twist, scented with bold Moroccan spices and lemon confit. Perhaps most famous as a foie gras advocate, Manrique's sauteed treatment of this delicacy is achingly tender, floating in a rich duck bouillon. Desserts, such as a oak spice creme brulee, nearly steal the whole show.