This cornerstone of high-end California cuisine still draws upscale crowds after 15 years..
As one of Wolfgang Puck's flagship endeavors, this posh institution features early-'90s decor elements--colorful patterns, whimsical light fixtures, mirrored artwork--that are now familiar to those who dine at his chain empire. Well-dressed patrons descend a sweeping staircase into the grand-scale dining room, where the enjoyment reaches near-boisterous noise levels.
Heavy copper-bound menus signal a premier dining experience, but elaborate, seasonally changing preparations result in varying degrees of success. A white asparagus appetizer layered with prosciutto, Parmesan cream and sunny-side up quail eggs is blissfully anointed with truffle oil. A pleasantly spicy crab cake, however, clashes with tart Granny Smith-and-lime puree. Clams accompanying sesame-crusted tuna are chewy, with the fish offset by a salty miso broth. Lovely lollipop-style lamb chops fall off the bone, and their accompanying wild mushroom-and-lamb-stuffed ravioli is redolent of Moroccan spices. For dessert, try the profiteroles, with chocolate sauce poured tableside from a tiny pitcher.
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