Neapolitan pizza and small plates in Potrero Hill..
The French restaurateur behind the beloved bistros Chez- Papa Resto, Papa Bistrot and Maman goes Italian with this breezy pizzeria at the sunny, quiet foot of Potrero Hill. The kitchen packs some serious pedigree with a one-time Chronicle Rising Star at executive chef alongside a certified pizzaioli who placed fifth in 2008's World Pizza Championships. The pizza is Neapolitan style--as if anyone would dare to eat any other kind these days--like at Pizzeria Delfina, Gialina, Pizzetta 211, etc., though it’s not as wafer-thin, crispy and sparsely topped as those; the cheese and toppings are evenly spread and the slightly thicker, softer, flour-dusted crust is superb. The antipasti (think burrata and fava bean salad, grilled octopus and chickpeas, braised artichokes with lemon and parsley) are simple, homey, and inexpensive, while the 35-bottle wine list is all Italian. It may not be the sort of pizza place where you take your kid for his birthday--unless your kid is a bit of a snob--but it is unstuffy enough for that, with a bar, tables and two huge, eight-person booths all made of sturdy slabs of wood, and the kind of easy, free parking you just don't find in San Francisco.