Citysearch Editorial Review.
The factors that determine an SF restaurant's success or failure can often be nebulous, so it's not a surprise that some restaurants try to incorporate every potential twist they can, in the hope that one or more will stick. This jack-of-all-trades mentality is very much in place at Spire, which offers something akin to a greatest-hits medley of the past five years in San Francisco dining: farm-to-table entrees, homemade charcuterie, craft cocktails, and a raw bar. Unfortunately, imitation isn't always flattering. Short ribs ($23) were tough and chewy, while honey-lavender ice cream had a distinctly soapy taste. A few gems of good cooking improve the mix, like a delectable sweet corn soup ($6), but there's definitely an identity crisis going on at Spire-- and its high prices don't exactly justify weathering its growing pains.