Conduit

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
A fireplace adjacent to the hostess gives diners a warm welcome. Shiny metal piping crisscrosses throughout the spacious room. Counter seating is available at the cocktail bar and in front of an open kitchen running across the back wall. In the center of it all: Romantic dates and groups of gal-pals huddling around black wood tables.

The Food
A focused menu listing select ingredients from each offering takes its cues from the restaurant's less-is-more decor. For starters: Two pillowy pan-seared scallops arrive atop petite-yet-plump mushrooms that are dressed with sweet garlic puree. Another light starter, tri-colored beets, benefit from the sweet-and-savory balance of citrus vinaigrette, shaved fennel and a hint of horseradish. Entrees are appropriately proportioned and may include a grilled walu flavored with bacon-like guanciale that's complemented by simple cannellini. The lamb three ways will suit more adventurous eaters with its succulent chop, fatty rib, and house-cured spicy sausage.

Hits: The wine list has something for everyone--from $5 glasses of Austrian red to $150 bottles of Napa's Round Pond.

Misses: Dates might find the lighting on the bright side, especially with the way it reflects off the metal piping.