Sozai Restaurant & Sake Lounge

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
While it seems beside the point to call any one block in the Sunset dead--other than the Ninth-and-Irving area, much of the neighborhood is quite sepulchral, after all--it's called for in pointing out just how much the district needs the light and warmth of a place like Sozai. The izakaya concept, which started with Japanese drink lounges that serve food to their customers, stresses the community experience of dining and imbibing with friends as well as with new acquaintances one meets there. In keeping with that, the atmosphere here is no-frills: Small tables sit close to one another, as do stools at the exhibition-kitchen counter, making it easy to strike up a conversation (and liberal samplings from the sake list, put together y True Sake owner Beau Timken, provide even more social lubrication). To that end, partner Gil Payne and his staff maintain an atmosphere of affability. Locals are grateful for a good congration spot, and those outside the neighborhood find that it's worth the trip.

The Food
Even if you don't meet new people among those seated next to you, the wide range of tasty options--both for the plate and in the glass--is sure to keep the conversation flowing at your own table. Edamame hummus is a must-have starter, as are the steamed mushrooms with soy butter and the marinated tuna won ton. The food-and-sake pairings are a surefire hit, with the traditional (sashimi, yakitori, kobe-beef-wrapped green onions with lotus root, shrimp-and-lotus-root ball in dashi broth) and the contemporary (curried scallops, filet katsu, bacon-wrapped prawns, lamb chop with shiso pesto) line-ups and their corresponding sake matches providing equally good options. For dessert, the macha affogato--hot macha (powdered green tea) over lychee ice cream is a solid effort, but the green tea panna cotta with organic strawberries is the one you'll still be talking about at home.

Hits: The knowledgeable servers are quick with the