SPQR
San Francisco, CA 94115
Phone: (415) 771-7779
- Price:
- $$
- Cross Street:
- Bush Street
- Hours:
- Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 10:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm
Editorial Review for SPQR – by Michael Peck
The Scene
In keeping with the spirit of Roman cuisine, which eschews the heavy use of spices and lets the simplicity of a dish's main ingredients stand on its own, this one-room space is white-walled austerity through and through. With table seating up front and a small, curved, marble-topped bar in back, there's little to distract the crowd of young professionals waiting for seats and dining from each other's company, save for a smattering of vintage TWA and Fellini-film posters and the like. It makes for an intimate--if sometimes a bit cramped for some tastes--atmosphere, but the attention to detail, service- and food-wise, more than makes up for the somewhat tight quarters.
The Food
Letting the spice rack gather dust means that each dish must work that much harder to make an impression--an intimidating enough challenge made even more so by the locals who still miss the space's former occupant, Chez Nous. Yet co-executive chefs Nate Appleman and Daniel Holzman have every element pulling its own weight, and many of those nostalgic diners may be forgiven for asking, "Chez who?" The roast chanterelles and sunchokes with pancetta and parsley starter are a perfect way to dip into the spare elegance of the menu, as are the bay scallops with dried tomatoes, red onions and breadcrumbs. The fried pumpkin, unfortunately, is overwhelmed by its own batter, but that's the only off-note. The aglio e olio with garlic, olive oil, pecorino and chiles is a perfectly able effort, and the porchetta with braised escarole is a good deed done for pork lovers: In lesser hands, the layers of meat and fat would need to be accompanied by a Lipitor prescription; here, it's not exactly health food, but the pure, smoky flavor inspires joyful denial. And as long as no one's worrying about the lab numbers or girth growth, the panino with caramelized milk, pears, shaved chocolate and sea salt, which is essentially the dessert version of a grilled-cheese sandwich with sweets subbed in, is the happiest of happy endings.
Hits: Service with a smile--on the faces of diners and staff alike. Navigating the wine list is a snap with the expert help available, the servers are genuinely enthusiastic about the offerings and the hostess gives you an honest wait-time estimate without a hint of attitude.
Misses: The aforementioned tight accommodations and slightly high noise levels may be a distraction from the food and wine, depending on one's preference, so be prepared to either like or ignore your neighbors.
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Insider Tips
Know Before You GoSPQR doesn't accept reservations, so prime time may be patience time.
Fun FactSPQR stands for "Senatus Populusque Romanus," which means "the senate and the Roman people." Found all over modern-day Rome, it dates back to ancient times.
Look GoodLooking to try a variety of tastes? The by-the-glass wine menu features 30 offerings (also available in half-carafes), and there's a price break on antipasti options when ordered in groups of three or five.
What to DrinkIt's a common misconception that the wines of Italty aren't full-bodied; it's just that many restaurants don't include the more robust choices on their lists. That's not a problem here: With a little expert consultation, lovers of in-your-face California reds will find Italian alternatives to keep them happy.
User Reviews for SPQR
03/09/2008 Posted by robertspcorp
I felt as though I missed out on the good food at this place. I sat by the kitchen and saw some very creatie looking dishes being prepared and I was enjoying this. But I was very dissappointed after having one of the worst italian meal I had in san francisco. I tried two appetizers, the first one was recommended higly, but it tasted like baby food farina with tasteless mushrooms on top. I give it a good grade for freshness though. More tasteless than authentic English food. The next appetizer, the ribs, was digustingly fatty. Maybe I got the bad straw, maybe I did not look young enough to get the good cuts for this place since I am over 40, but I had too push the food aside and kindly ask for the check since I have tasted enough. This place does have pretense, but thankfully, not as much as A16, where people think they are better than everyone around them. Much like places in NYC, been there, done that. I perhaps missed out on good pasta, but I think I will not be passing the ever so friendly vivande restaurant or other Italian restaurants a few blocks away before stopping to try the pasta here. Still, the cooks cooking the meals were very nice and showed me there finished products. Could have been an everthing that could have gone wrong did go wrong night, but then again, I almost never experience that in San Francisco.
Pros: Looks of restaurant, good counter top dining, nice selection of wines by glass
Cons: Food -- tried two appetizers
03/05/2008 Posted by gwinston73
My first impression of this place is warm and inviting. The brussel sprouts are delicious, a bit greasy. We have tried several different pastas, perfectedly al dente.
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