Spruce

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The Scene
Housed in a 1930s-era car barn (the entrance arch was built to allow for the passage of Model Ts), the well-thought-out space hits the mark on dark, contemporary sophistication. The entrance is flanked by a take-out cafe and a sitting room/library, while the 70-seat dining room is separated from the hopping bar area by a wall of glass panes. A ceiling highlighted by exposed steel supports and a black-and-chocolate color scheme set the tone for the hip, well-to-do clientele, who, lounging in faux-ostrich chairs and on mohair couches, are seemingly imported from all corners of the city and beyond to lend a dose of in-crowd to a neighborhood that's mostly changed into 'jammies in time for the 11pm news.

The Food
Heirloom-tomato gazpacho showcases Chef Mark Sullivan's commitment to serving organic, locally sourced produce; each dip is a veritable garden on a spoon. Buttered Maine lobster is served out of the shell, while a perfectly grilled bavette steak comes with duck-fat potatoes, a companion piece so hearty that anything more than the modest portion would be overwhelming. For dessert, chocolate-and-caramel fondant with chocolate sorbet and chocolate paper is, as one might guess, a love song to the cocoa bean; a stone fruit "bruschetta" lemon verbena ice cream provides a sweet finish with a lighter touch.

Hits: The service is personable and efficient, even when put through their paces by the dinner rush hitting this popular spot--and the host or hostess will give an honest wait-time appraisal on packed nights.

Misses: A very small quibble: The gnocchi in the lobster dish is a competent effort, but leaves some room for improvement, given the high bar set by SF's numerous Italian specialists.