Tajine

Joanna Currier

Citysearch

The Scene
Service and decor are mere afterthoughts at this no-frills joint, with room for about 30, where the draws are the flavors (and prices) of owner Mohammed Ghaleb's native cooking. Ambience is warmed by a pastiche of colorful posters, lanterns, throw pillows and fez hats on male servers. Staff speak mostly French and maneuver the simple dining room enthusiastically but haphazardly. Cuisine is halal (acceptable to the Muslim religion)--alcohol is not served, but there is no corkage fee if you bring your own.

The Food
The Moroccan food here achieved near-cult status at Ghaleb's original Jones Street location, and with this larger space his tajines (savory stews), bastillas (meat pies) and vegetarian or meat couscous dishes attract an even stronger following. It's a terrific place to learn about the cuisine's subtle and exotic--not spicy--flavors (dishes are composed with elements such as almonds, prunes, raisins and sweet vegetables); diners here should try some of each. With portions big enough to share and nothing on the menu costing more than $13, that's easy to do.